MFW: ANDREA INCONTRI S/S 2015

Do we dare make any predictions based on the first two shows of the week in Milan? One probably should wait at least until the end of the day, but the fact that we are already seeing such dramatic splashes of bright and vivid color stands in stark contrast to the darker tones that seemed to dominate much of London and a fair portion of New York. That could all change, of course, but I rather like the way we are starting here.

Andrea Incontri takes more of a watercolor approach to his prints, and his solids fall more into the range of pastels, but they are still plenty bright and his use of gold late in the collection is absolutely electric. Blue is the dominant hue, but there is plenty of alternatives to go around.

Incontri works with a very relaxed, almost casual silhouette. He really seems to like the jumpsuit look, though there aren’t that many true jumpers in the set. Instead, he carefully matches tops and slacks in separates so that, at first glance, he achieves that aesthetic. His skirts are loose enough to provide plenty of motion, but are not excessively full. As the collection progresses, he moves toward tops with longer looks, though not necessarily in a tunic style. He likes the motion and layering, but stays more feminine up top with spaghetti straps and lower neck lines. A few one piece swimsuits are also included for fun.

Sheer isn’t too much of a factor in this collection and it is much too early to determine whether that look is going to be as strong as it was in Milan. Andrea plays just a touch with applique on white, but never really develops the look. He frequently uses sateen as a trim against more matte fabrics and that is a very attractive look that gives his ensembles sufficient contrast without making them too dressy.

What’s difficult to describe in this collection are some of the shoes. Not all of them, mind you, just the few that are not strapped heels. These would be the ones where the fabric comes on up the leg, in one instance all the way up the thigh, with cut outs on the side. They don’t work. The nature of the cut outs causes the fabric to sag. Perhaps one might tie them taught enough to prevent that from happening, but anything that tight on one’s legs is going to leave very unattractive indentations on the skin when removed.

Andrea Incontri gives us a very workable, casual, and pleasant day wear collection for next spring. These looks will work well in the casual office or even out for dinner with friends. If all of Milan is this pleasant, we shall have a very nice week.

Photo credit: Regis Colin Berthelier

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