LFW: SIMONE ROCHA S/S 2015

They’re not slippers, I promise. Okay, they rather look like slippers at times, and from any distance at all I can appreciate where one might make that mistake. Actually, well mostly, they’re pointed-toed dress flats … with fur trim.  Nope, not kidding. Fur trim all the way around the outside of the flats.

One can be forgiven for the error. Given that the presentation is set in the sanctuary of Saint Andrews church (with all altar vestments conveniently removed), forgiveness is rather required. The ecclesiastical setting was an interesting choice. Certainly, there was some austerity to the early pieces, and some romanticism later on that looked quite lovely as it crossed the light from the stained glass windows. While there were some romantic touches, though, there were no brides, and several of the looks were far too sheer to be innocent.

Rocha continued a trend she’s had for the past several seasons of largely monochrome looks. At least this season she started with the trending chocolate brown rather than black (though they look black in the still photos), and there was a respite of bright red floral prints smack in the middle of the collection. There was even some plastic applique flowers attached to a few looks. So, one might actually say Simone was branching out quite a bit with this collection, at least from a color perspective.

Silhouettes played comfortable and close. Asymmetrical hems fell along gentle curved lines rather than sharp edges. There were several modified trench looks throughout the presentation and even a couple of A-line shifts.  Hem lines ran long, waist lines stayed low, and necklines stayed up at the top. There were a surprising number of long sleeves, even though most were sheer.

What really sets this collection apart, though, is the detailing. The fur that trims the shoes is a major element in the first half of the presentation, lining the hems of dresses, skirts, jackets, and slacks. The look isn’t ostentatious by any means. If anything, it almost has the opposite effect, making some of the dresses look more like house coats. I’ve already mentioned the applique flowers, but they really are quite remarkably well done and really help give the floral prints a wonderful 3D look. Beautifully scalloped edges, something we’ve not seen anywhere in a very long time, took over the latter part of the collection, and even provided detailing on sheer gloves, creating a very unique look.

Curious were the sheer scarves that models wore over their faces for a large number of looks. While we’ve seen similar things done before, I can’t remember when they’ve been so dominant as they are here. On some ensembles, the effect is a bit unsettling. When done with black lace the look is very much of that of a mourner at a funeral. Yet, the dress itself is far too lacy to be appropriate for such an event.

Simone Rocha is very impressive yet again and this spring/summer collection is going to be quite popular … with the possible exception of those shoes. I can’t imagine wearing fur-trimmed shoes. I suppose we’ll see what happens.

Photo credit: Yannis Vlamos

 

Tags from the story
, ,
More from charles i. letbetter

MFW: Blumarine Explores An Irresistible Lightness

She’s back! After a couple of seasons that ultimately seemed austere and...
Read More