Pastel colored light streamed through the windows at Westminster Abbey for this afternoon’s Peter Pilotto spring/summer 2015 collection. Not the main church part, mind you. Rather, a hallway somewhere with a more modern look to it. Of course, it would be cloudy this afternoon, so there wasn’t a tremendous amount of light coming through the window, but it was enough to set the mood.
And what do we get with pastel light? Why, pastel flowers! Again, no big surprise. Peter and his partner Christopher deVoss have put together a very colorful collection that plays off dark backgrounds to keep the colors and shapes well contained in a collection that pulls together a lot of different shapes at the same time. Occasionally all those different objects in such limited space can feel a bit busy, but for the most part they manage to make the concept work.
This is yet another collection, however, that one really needs to see in motion to appreciate. One of the primary elements of this collection is the amount of plastic that is used. See a space that looks sheer (and there are plenty of them, though they’re rather small), and it’s covered in clear plastic. A glint of light as a dress passes comes from the plastic coating on the material, or a clear plastic disc used like very large sequins on some of the pieces. So, what we have here are perhaps artificial flowers.
Creative use of basic shapes is what makes the collection exciting. Flower petals take on a bit of a paisley feel. Ribbons twist into dramatic graphic designs. Stripes contrast circles and as the collection grows the shapes become larger and more abstract. All of this on asymmetrical cuts creates a whirlwind of color that screams, shouts, and demands one’s attention.
Silhouettes are, as expected, relatively fitted, though not to the point of being uncomfortable. 1970s stylings are definitely referenced, but not to the point they detract from the modern cuts. There is likely an age and body size at which these looks just don’t work, though. That doesn’t mean the collection is limited to tall, thin, models. Several of the pieces are separates so careful selection and perhaps pairing with what one already has in the closet extends the wearability of the whole collection.
Is this collection for everyone? Of course not. One has to really like color and probably be fairly active and outgoing to wear these clothes well. This is a very fun line, though, and one gets the sense that a lot of fun was put into its creation.