LFW: ISSA S/S 2015

Looped macrame. When was the last time you saw that? Okay, now that I think about it I do believe we saw some macrame in at least one collection last season but this isn’t a typical element to bring to bear in the average spring/summer collection. Yet, Blue Farrier has brought it to bear in a collection that is all about motion.

Prints are the big element in this collection, invoking a sense of movement with continuous waves and galloping horse prints. The prints are some of the most dynamic we’ve seen this season, especially for black and white looks where prints can often tend to be a bit bland.  Bits of blue, pink, and yellow brighten the collection for just a few looks, but overall this is a black and white collection that doesn’t need a lot of color to work.

Silhouettes are, like the prints, full of gentle curves. A few of the looks are slightly more full, largely owing to the fact that Farrier has put pockets in several of the skirts, but the most part she stays reasonably close to the body without making the looks too tight.

The looped macrame comes in the second half of the collection when, interestingly enough, the theme makes an abrupt shift away from horses to flowers. Why? I’m not sure. The horses and waves were unique and different in a season where we’ve seen flowers in abundance. Yet, if one is bound and determined to do macrame, the flower is certainly a much easier shape to compose. The looks work and she’s able to continue the wave motion even with the flowers.

Coming immediately after the Burberry show across town, the Issa collection seems almost boring by comparison. Yet, when one takes the time to look through the pieces are really quite well done and very practical additions to one’s wardrobe.

Photo credit:  Regis Colin Berthelier

 

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