LFW: PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

So, here’s the question no one seems to want to answer. What happens with all these Scottish designers if Scotland is no longer part of the UK come next February? Scottish designers are a large part of London Fashion Week and if, for some silly political reason, they were to be left out there would be some gaping and noticeable holes in the schedule. At the same time, I rather doubt there are enough of them to mount a serious Glascow Fashion Week that anyone would actually attend. What happens over the next couple of weeks in this country could have a rather dramatic effect on the fashion industry.

I bring that matter up here because Massimo Nicosia has done an excellent job this season of bringing the Pringle of Scotland label back to the basics of knitwear, the very thing that brought the house to prominence in the first place. Founded in 1815, Pringle has been creating quality knitwear longer than the United Kingdom has been united. In fact, Britain was still rather upset with those upstarts called the United States when this label got its start. Should they not be allowed to show here, London would be missing its most significant knitwear label.

Massimo delivers a very clean and very fresh collection that is in some ways a new start for the label. The silhouettes are more sporty, with skirts and dresses that hint at active wear  and tops that infer a sense of the masculine without totally making that boxy commitment. While the majority of the collection is composed of solids (and the greater portion of those are white), there are some very nice small-designed prints and a couple of 3D applique pieces that in some ways look like spikes protruding from the garments, creating a sense of fun and humor.

Beautifully crocheted tops and sweaters are, as one might expect, the high points of the collection, but by no means should one ignore the other pieces. Massimo actually does a great job with some leather skirts, and a quilted dress fairly late in the collection is nothing short of stunning.

There is plenty to like in this Pringle collection, especially if one gets close and pays attention to the detail, such as the subtle ribbing or gentle color gradients. A collection like this should do very well in stores come next spring. Let’s just hope politics doesn’t get in the way of that happening.

Photo credit: Guillame Roujas

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