LFW: MARIOS SCHWAB S/S 2015

Marios Schwab’s spring/summer 2015 collection could have been one of those that just blends in with the crowd. There’s an opening trench look, masculine tailoring, and an earth tone palette. How many times have I typed those phrases over the past few days? Yet, blend in is exactly what this collection does not  do. Instead, Schwab gives us a fresh set of silhouettes that are  unique, flattering, and exciting without being all up in one’s face about just how different they are.

That opening trench look? While the top may look ordinary enough, you’ll want to pay attention to the three-tiered cross-over layering in the skirt. This is a look Marios uses extensively throughout this collection and is what keeps the whole thing from being ordinary. The method hints at being a bit minimalist with its well sculpted lines, but its fit is more feminine, staying reasonably close to the body and avoiding the boxy look minimalists often bring. The opening look is a single piece, which is astonishing, and he repeats the look in separates and dresses throughout the collection.

Marios also has this thing for faux sheer. I say faux because, while the look is more certainly skin toned (assuming one is Caucasian with a moderate skin hue) the designer doesn’t risk actually letting body parts show through his clothes. A nude-colored lining lies under the sheer layer with geometric stylings. The effect is quite dramatic on the runway, but unless these pieces come with a wide array of under tones they’re not likely to hold their appeal on the average woman. When it works, though, the look is certain to turn heads. The geometrically shaped ribbons are a very dramatic touch, and there are some panels that, at first glance, appear to defy gravity. This is one of those elements that looks great on the runway, but may not transfer as well to real-world wearing conditions.

Another winner in this collection are the silk prints. Soft and exciting, the fabric works wonderfully well with Marios’ crisscross styling and moves quite well as one walks. These looks may actually have a life beyond spring as well given that their coloring is darker, with accents in orange and dusty blue, so that they might flow right into the first part of next autumn.

There is some great detailing, totally original fasteners, and beautifully constructed gowns that round out this Marios Schwab collection. Blend in? Not hardly. These are delightful looks in a strong collection that can definitely make a positive impact on one’s wardrobe.

Photo credit: NowFashion

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