LFW: LUCAS NASCIMENTO S/S 2015

Lucas Nascimento eschews trends. He doesn’t like them at all. He much prefers to design clothes capable of lasting a lifetime, not a season or two. Minimalist design seems well-suited for that goal, but even there Lucas has to be different than his peers with a choice of cuts that is rather different from his peers.

When one first looks at Nascimento’s spring/summer collection, the first thing one notices is likely his take on color blocking.  Very precise lines define the boundaries for specific shades of orange in the first look, then a carefully rounded flap gives just an accent of orange over a tan leather top. All through this collection, colors have very strict rules, hard lines which they do not cross.

The second thing one is likely to notice is that about a third of any given top is missing. Lucas likes layers and especially likes putting long layers over short. For a great number of the looks in this collection, though, the top only covers roughly two-thirds of the breadth of the torso with an accent colored bandeau top beneath. He uses this method often and, rather surprisingly, it works quite well.

Actually, let me refine that description a bit. The look works best when the top layer runs full length, shoulder to ankle. In those circumstances, it comes off as very fresh, very contemporary, and very exciting. When the look doesn’t start until the waist, it is more confusing as he tends to have two other layers on the opposite leg. When the look stops at the waist, with just a sheer panel underneath, one is left wondering why the person left the house without pants, a very absent minded type of look.

There are plenty of other silhouettes within the mix, including one very well conceived jacket and a delightful dress with blue diagonal stripes. Nascimento adds additional pop to the looks with shoes of contrasting color.

I can’t say whether the person buying one of these looks next spring will still want to wear it ten years from now. Given the sometimes short cycle with which trends and styles come and go, what we’re seeing today could quite easily still be viable even 15 years down the road. What we can know is that Lucas Nascimento has created garments strong on design and tailoring, built to last one a lifetime.

Photo credit: Regis Colin Berthelier

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