LFW: EUDON CHOI S/S 2015

Oversized silhouettes with masculine tailoring and contrasting fabrics was the call of the day for Eudon Choi. Are we surprised? Not at all. Choi started in men’s wear, after all, and is most comfortable with that look. We’ve seen him hint at masculine tailoring before. This season, though, he takes it to a bit more of an extreme. Imagine, if you will, how it looks when a small child invades her father’s closets and tries on his suit coats and blazers, that is very much the feel we get for this collection. Most of the time, that works, but not always.

What makes this collection interesting, though, beyond the gender-neutralizing styles, is the juxtaposition of fabrics, solids versus patterns. Choi starts out with dark solids, which seems normal enough, and then moves to pale floral pastel prints. Both are perfectly fine in their own right, but then the designer begins mixing them in ways one doesn’t quite expect. Sometimes the touch is quite small: a single solid-colored strap on a floral print jumper. Other times, the effect is more startling: what appears to be a print dress from the front is a dark solid in the back. At times, he even switches the very silhouette. One particular piece looks very much like a lovely print dress from the front. Only when the model makes the turn does one see a more masculine silhouette favoring a jacket over pleated skirt look.

Another interesting touch to this Eudon Choi collection is his decision to place an elastic band just above the ankle on the pants. The visual effect is certainly interesting, in some ways making them look more like over-sized children’s wear. I can see where there might be a practical advantage, though, for those who often ride bicycles.   The elastic band removes the danger of getting one’s pants leg caught in a chain. Whether that detail is what inspired the move I don’t know, but it at least sounds plausible.

We’ve seen a number of very large and very loose looks already this season, but Choi really pushes that to its extreme with this collection.  Sometimes, the method works, such as with a full-length coat dress that only requires a couple of buttons to keep it fastened. The tailoring may be masculine, but the look pushes the femininity of the person wearing it. Others, however, just look like there’s too much material in play. This becomes painfully obvious on some belted looks toward the end of the collection. Where a loose look flows, the gathering and bunching created by a belt  emphasizes just how much excess material is present.

I’m not sure how many of these looks will appeal to Western buyers. This seems to be a much more Asian-centric collection than Choi’s previous outings. Given his primary market, though, I think this may be a wise move. Certainly, there are still several looks here that appeal to women of both philosophies. After all, everyone likes to be attractive and comfortable and this collection manages to do both.

Photo credit: Stephano Masse

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