LFW: DAKS S/S 2015

Some days things don’t go quite like one plans. Maybe they didn’t have time for a run through before guests started arriving. Perhaps the person who designed the layout imagined the models having a more regulated and well-timed gait as they strolled the catwalk. I suppose there’s even the chance that actual space at London’s Royal Opera House was just different enough from what was planned to force some last minute design changes. Whatever the reason, this afternoon’s DAKS presentation was far from smooth. The single enter/exit point meant models were constantly having to dodge each other as they came and went. At times there seemed to be someone backstage providing some much needed direction, but too often the models seemed to be left to their own sense of timing which led to more than a few near collisions on the runway. One poor model even turned the wrong direction as she started her walk and had to embarrassingly turn around and start over; in all my years of watching fashion shows, I don’t think I’ve ever seen that happen.

Fortunately, this is a very strong collection from Filippo so I rather doubt that anyone will actually remember the runway issues after several hours. This is a good looking and diverse collection, heavy on violets and white, sometimes contemporary and liberal with its loose, flowing tops, and at other times more traditional and conservative with starched white collars buttoned to the top.

Silhouettes generally run rather lean, as one expects from the DAKS label, especially where well-tailored slacks are concerned, and there are number of beautifully styled pants in this set. Tops are typically a bit more roomy with Filippo giving sleeves a lot of space to flutter in the breeze. Traditional looks are as simple as an A-line skirt with a white button down blouse, yet there is also a very contemporary, minimalist look with careful folding. One early piece brings a layer of chiffon beautifully from the blouse up over the head, while a later look opts for the shortest and tightest shorts possibly imagined.

There are no bad or questionable looks here, though the range of occasions spans from the very casual in a button-down, full-length dress shirt to the very formal in a white high-collared dress that could easily pass for a wedding gown, though something tells me that was not necessarily the designer’s intent (an almost identical ensemble in blouse and slacks came only two looks later). Still, with all this diversity the collection is quite cohesive and well engineered.

Presentation difficulties aside, this is yet another very attractive collection for DAKS, one that is likely to make one happy we live in a day and age when online ordering is an option. Almost everyone is going to find something in this collection to enhance their spring/summer wardrobe.

Photo credit: Regis Colin Berthelier

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