LFW: CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN S/S 2015

Christopher Raeburn likes re-purposing materials originating places other than fashion. For spring/summer 2015, Raeburn is thinking of Flights of Fancy and that led him to parachute material as one of the primary sources of fabric for this very unique and extremely light weight collection.

We’re accustomed to casual sportswear from Raeburn, so the silhouettes he shows don’t really catch us by surprise. Both the “hybrid hoodie,” and his more traditional hoodie are looks we’ve been seeing for a few seasons now. His quilted bomber makes another appearance this season as well, this time over gray pleated pants. So, when one combines all of those silhouettes in their various long and short incarnations (and by long I mean just long enough one need not wear pants unless there’s a stiff wind), one pretty much gets a feel for the sum of the looks.

Raeburn’s color palette is slightly different this time around. Blues and pinks get the majority of attention with just a little bit of green tossed in toward the end. The gold from this past spring is nowhere to be seen. Of course, there’s white and black and a tremendous amount of sheer, but it just wouldn’t be a Christopher Raeburn collection without those, would it?

One wants to pay special attention to those green ensembles toward the end. Notice how that fabric doesn’t look like anything you’ve really seen before? Normally, Raeburn has a strong affinity for merino wool. In fact, the light weight wool composes a significant percentage of his collection. These last few pieces, though, are made from dismantled parachute cords! The textured effect achieved as the cord is wound back and forth in a snake-like pattern is extremely unique and one you can be sure no one else is going to have. Raeburn’s team actually sat and dismantled all the cord by hand. How that will work going into production, I don’t know. I’m sure they’ll find some way to keep those looks alive.

Sandals, again, are required footwear and I was surprised by just how much attention the pink drawstrings received. Once again, it’s the little things that seem to matter the most.

Christopher Raeburn gives us another very fun, very colorful, and very sporty collection for next spring. These are the kind of clothes that make you want to think about going out and doing things. At least, you can look like you might have done something adventurous … in clothes that weren’t quite as nice as these. Hiking in sheer fabrics probably isn’t something anyone would recommend. But hey, you’ll look good at the party afterward!

Photo credit: Regis Colin Bertheiler

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