LFW: BORA AKSU S/S 2015

While this morning’s first show might have been quiet and peaceful, Bora Aksu escalated things very quickly with a spring/summer collection that is nothing short of amazing, and the whole thing started with the invitation.

Fashion show invitations are typically boring things. Occasionally a major label might get creative with lace or textured paper, but for the most part they’re pretty straight forward. Aksu took a very different turn by sending out invitations that looked more like a greeting card. On the cover was a lovely illustration picturing three young women sitting outdoors in white slips. Upon opening the card one discovers a set of stickers with which one can not only dress the girls on the front, but give them a pet cat. Cute, to be sure.

So then, when one enters Somerset House this morning, one observes four chairs of different style placed at the top of the runway. As the music begins, ten models walk out, four taking seats on the chairs and the remaining standing in assigned poses behind them. Each was dressed in predominantly white ensembles resembling the looks on the invitation. After a brief moment, each model takes to the runway.

None of the looks are lingerie, though. Each one is a carefully composed ensemble that hints at a vintage feel with either copious amounts of lace or crochet. Sheer panels are plentiful, but not in a way that is even the slightest bit inappropriate. If anything, the looks come off more demure and reserved.

Then, an interesting thing happens. As the girls return for their second look, we find that many are the new ensembles lie every so nicely over or in conjunction with the first look! Talk about a practical and impressive approach to layering! So brilliantly conceived are these looks, and there really are only a handful that take this approach, that one would never suspect that they come with such versatile options.

From here on, the looks just continue being all the more impressive. Large amounts of traditional lace give way to laser cut pieces with amazing intricacies. Classic blue and white floral patterns are draped and cut and layered in the most contemporary of stylings. There is always a sense of vintage Victorian in the silhouettes, but at the same time there is no question as to the modernity of the looks.

The unquestionable crowd favorite was Aksu’s take on a purple bride. A head-to-toe veil of purple tulle covers a gown of the most intricate purple lace.  I’m told that the look is somewhat of a reference to the H.H. Martin books and HBO series, “Game of Thrones,” which I can sort of see, but within the realm of alternative bridal wear this is the most exciting piece I’ve seen in several seasons (sorry, Mr. Lagerfeld).

I was expecting a relatively calm morning of relatively normal fashion, but Bora Aksu has already raised my cardio rate to mid-exercise levels with no more exertion from me than walking from one seat to the other. Is all of London going to be this exciting? If so, I may need to cut back on the coffee a bit.

Photo credit: Guillame Roujas

 

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