NYFW: DELPOZO S/S 2015

Be careful when handling pieces from this Delpozo’s spring/summer 2015 collection. Those clean lines can be sharp.

What Spanish designer Josep Font does with clothes is nothing short of spectacular. He has this very unique way of bringing haute couture shapes to ready-to-wear silhouettes so that they actually have the potential to work. Okay, so there is probably some difference between what we see on the runway and what actually makes its way into production. Still, Font is bringing some exciting new and carefully conceived silhouettes to New York with what is rapidly becoming one of the season’s most anticipated shows.

Describing these clothes can be a bit challenging. Let’s start with the concept that there’s a floral theme driving the general design. Think of the most basic shapes and curves of some of your favorite flowers. Now, turn them upside down and twist them sideways, and then gather them in at the center. Got the picture? Great, you can now understand what Font is doing with this Delpozo collection. Font gives just as much consideration to the construction and design of sleeves and collars, some of which are normal enough, but others gentle easy away from the garment or stand up tall at the top of the shoulder. Two piece ensembles have the feel of caps and stems, with tops that hold either a rounded or bell-shaped design over lean, stem-like skirts and slacks. Long, large layers play heavily into the construction of these pieces that manage to work in some trending elements, such as the cropped midriff, without actually looking like they’re giving in to popular concepts.

One element Font uses frequently is a large piece of fabric carefully folded and gathered right at the center of the breast bone like a large bloom. In this incarnation, the structure is a bit large and unseemly, but one can easily imagine a slightly smaller version coming through production to great applause.

Fonts selection of fabrics is not necessarily intuitive but necessary to create the structures he imagines. These are, for the most part, pieces that can stand on their own without benefit of a hanger. Newgen fabrics, resembling plastic and foam but they’re not plastic nor foam, give Font the heft and construction he needs to engineer this pieces, some of which are actually quite large. As with most haute couture pieces, no one is every really sure how one is supposed to sit down in some of these dresses. For that matter, more than a few of them could present challenges when one is attempting to fasten a seatbelt in the car.

There are plenty of softer, easier to handle fabrics. One white crocheted dress especially stands out and is almost certainly one of the most popular pieces from the collection. Expect that one to sell out quickly. Three gowns toward the end of the collection are composed almost entirely of tulle, providing a strong contrast to the more heavily constructed pieces.

Josep Font’s Delpozo collection is easily going to be the one on every tongue at dinner this evening. If you’re not familiar with the label, you might want to start checking it out now.

Photo credit: Valerio Mezzanotti

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