NYFW: MM6 MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA S/S 2015

Welcome to the world of pajama wear. This is the collection that seems to be made for just about every college student on the planet, not to mention a few of those who are out of school and finding it difficult to obtain suitable employment. Unfortunately, that particular audience isn’t likely to have the budget for MM6, so I’m not sure exactly where that leaves their target market.

This is a collection that juxtaposes the smooth silkiness of satin pajamas with the roughness of denim and a curious addition of leather here and there. At times, the collection gives one the impression of heading toward the rough and tumble Southwest. At other times, this collection has difficulty getting out of bed. There’s even one look in here that, so help me, seems to have forgotten to take the garment bag off before putting on the clothes. Another look simply wrapped the quilted comforter around the pajamas.

Where the looks were sateen or silk, the silhouettes were oversized, loose, and baggy, which is what one tends to want in a pajama. There are a few that come closer to resembling house coats, a look that was popular on a number of European runways last season, but for the most part this is a collection that has just-crawled-out-of-bed written all over it.

Then, there’s the denim. Someone from LOVE magazine referred to these looks as Japanese cowgirl. Okay, let’s just run with that for lack of a better description. Denim is almost always cool, but chances are one already has most these looks hanging in the back of their closet or rumpled at the bottom of a dresser drawer. The frayed edges had their day two seasons ago and have definitely not been something we’ve seen in abundance this year (for which we are quite thankful). The silhouettes have more of a dumpy feel to them, except for those leather chaps that are just … well … disturbing is the word we’re going to use. And that red leather pseudo bandanna top? Looks cool, but that’s going to generate more perspiration than the steam room at a weight loss clinic.

Speaking of disturbing, beware of the triangle clutch with the really long leather fringe. I had to take a second and third look at the thing to verify that it was, indeed, a clutch and not something one might pick up at an adult novelty store.

Then, there’s the matter of those platform shoes. Okay, I get it, not everyone can be a 5’10” model. I totally understand the grief that causes some people. What’s bothersome about these shoes, though, is the stiff ankle straps that look more like someone zip tied the shoes to their feet. Perhaps even more frightening is that, post show, the shoes are really the only thing anyone is talking about on social media.

I’m sure the Margiela faithful will find things in this collection to love. I’m sure more than one coed will use this as an excuse to show up to class in her pajamas. I’ve no clue what anyone is going to do with those chaps.

Photo credit: Gio Staiano

 

 

Tags from the story
, , ,
More from charles i. letbetter

PFW: ROLAND MOURET S/S 2014

We’ve all been there, sitting in a dark room (we won’t ask...
Read More