NYFW: ZAC POSEN S/S 2015

What’s black and white and red, repeated?

Zac Posen’s spring/summer 2015 collection. No joke. Three colors. All monochrome looks. No prints, though there was occasionally some interesting fabric detailing. About as simple as a ready-to-wear line can get.

In some ways, the silhouettes remind me of the qualities found in a good sports car: clean, lean, efficient, and easy on the curves. I would like to be able to say this is a curvy girl’s perfect collection, but no; this is a collection one buys a size large and then has tailored to fit them. Expecting looks to fit you like this off the rack it totally impractical.

Hem lengths ranged from long to longer, as we’ve seen quite a bit today. In fact, hem lines are going to be a pretty strong dividing point between the junior/misses collections and those designed for people with big girl budgets. One’s not likely to get a sight of someone’s knee accidentally showing. In fact, this may be the most modest looking collection we see all season. Perhaps that’s why Coca Rocha was happy to walk for Zac. There’s nothing here that might potentially embarrass a good Mormon mom.

The collection was allegedly inspired by the late Audrey Hepburn and I can definitely see a bit of her glamour in these looks. In fact, a couple of them might have come straight out of a 1940s movie were it not for the contemporary fabrics Zac chose.

Two pieces are getting a lot of early attention. One is the white gown that closed the show, destined to appear at someone’s wedding next spring. The other is a red piece near the end of the show worn perfectly by Anna Cleveland. Give the girl a read wig and we have a real, live, Jessica Rabbit on our hands.

Where we ultimately find ourselves, though, is that, as attractive as this collection is to certain audiences, just how practical is it, even for special occasions? Even the runway models had to be sewn into some of these pieces. Those who want to try them on will find themselves working with sizes larger than they wish, just to prevent any ripping accidents. Then, once the garment is on, one will need an escort to arrive safely to the other side of the room. Oh, and don’t sit down in the dresses.

As lovely as Zac Posen collection is to watch, not too many women can actually pull off wearing anything from this collection. Perhaps, one day, Zac will design for real people like you.

Photo credit: Fabio Iona

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