NYFW: CUSTO BARCELONA S/S 2015

I’ve not seen a full collection from David and Custo Dalmau for several years, primarily because they typically have the bad luck of being scheduled against a bigger name designer who demanded my attention. Such was not the case this afternoon and I couldn’t help dancing a bit in my seat as I waited for the typically colorful and deeply textured clothes to come down the line. While the brothers are originally from Spain, Southern California is their home now and that frequently influences a lot of their silhouettes, which are primarily meant for a close-to-the-beach existence. They travel extensively, though, and the cultures they experience frequently make their way into the clothing.

I will admit right now that words are not going to be enough to sufficiently describe these clothes to you. This is a spring/summer collection that one needs to experience in order to fully appreciate all that it has to offer. The line is extensive, including both men’s and women’s wear, daywear and swim suits. No, ladies, you’re probably not going to wear these into the water, but they’ll look great at a beach party … provided one has the appropriate body to go with them.

South American tribal designs decorate many of the woven patterns seen throughout the various sets. Most of the patterns actually are relegated to bags and jackets given that the greater portion of the clothes are sheer and mesh. Yet, the influence still carries across very strongly in a beautiful mix of colors that center on a very bright pink but also include pops of green, yellow, orange, and blue.

Pink is by far the dominant color for the collection, though lime green and powder blue make strong appearances later on. This is a deep, dark, pink though. Sultry, sexy, the color of a nice roset wine. Gold is used a great deal as an accent early on and then dominates the last few looks.

As for the clothes themselves … well … this is another one of those lines where your body is going to have to be in great shape before you even go shopping. Take these into the dressing room without spending the winter in the gym will result in tears, at best, and a five to seven day depressive drinking binge at worst. While the clothes are not especially fitted, for the most part, they do tend to be incredibly sheer. This is easily the most mesh I’ve seen used in any collection ever. Some of the mesh is very tight, small, and firm, while other, especially in the last several looks, is large, loose, and leaves absolutely nothing to the imagination. The opening number, a cropped bolero jacket studded with gold over a white dress with alternating sheer panels, may be the most modest piece for women in the entire collection.

There are a few details worth mentioning. Well toned men in sheer pink shirts. If they ever put it on a billboard it will snarl traffic for miles. Gold lame` deck shoes. I’m not kidding. They’re real. Bikini tops with sheer sleeves sewn in. The look is fantastic even if it does make one blink a time or two when first seeing it. Bikini bottoms emphasize the back side of a woman’s body. Even your booty has to be in shape. Guys, apparently, are meant to be mules. Every men’s look came with a very  large shoulder bag. I guess we know who’s carrying the beer.

This is an incredibly attractive, very colorful, and immensely sexy. If you have a chance to see the full collection, which might be a bit challenging, by all means make an effort to do so. Custo Barecelona is definitely worth your attention.

Photo credit: Frazer Harrison

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