NYFW: ALEXANDER WANG S/S 2015

So, let’s get down and dirty here. Just how comfortable are you with the gym? Are you one of those people who go a couple of times a day or are you, like me, one who would rather spend the morning at the doughnut shop? If you’re reading this and there’s a pastry in your hand, you may want to put it down now. Alexander Wang’s spring/summer 2015 line is not just sporty, it’s aggressively athletic,  to the point that if one doesn’t already have a fairly healthy workout regimen, then you probably need to start one now if one wants to have any hope of actually fitting into any of these clothes. Seriously. Don’t even bother taking them to the dressing room if you’re not fit.

Alexander Wang continues to be one of the most popular shows at New York Fashion Week and his label certainly isn’t hurting for market share, so I suppose it’s okay for him to create a collection, inspired by the bar code, that is so trim and fit as to realistically only work on less than three percent of the female population. Mind you, the styles are fantastic; out of this world, even. You’re going to love every piece you see. But there is absolutely no forgiveness in any of these styles. Flat stomachs, firm thighs, and lean structures are a necessity if one is going to wear these pieces well.

The first look was rather cute: a masculine styled coat dress, tailored at the waist, with a bar code around the middle and a smaller one on the shirt collar. He keeps that black and white look going for the first few pieces, complete with bar code on the shirt collars, then moves to neon colored dresses of a neoprene-type material stretched so tightly as to be practically sheer in blue. The look is something out of Tron (a really strange movie for those who don’t recognize the reference). The way the panels lay, though, even the slightest tummy bulge is going to look glaring in these dresses.

So it is with all the silhouettes in this collection. Everything is as tight and clingy as possible, including the maxi dresses, of which there are multiple and which look incredibly wonderful on the models. Everything, including moto jackets with mesh sleeves and short, pleated tennis skirts, play as tightly to the body as their styles and materials can allow.

Speaking of materials, in addition to all the stretchy stuff Wang uses, including some that are very new and very high tech, there are some touches of rubberized leather that are absolutely breath taking. This is a very visually appealing line, which makes one want it all the more.  Most everything is set on a black background, which might help mask some imperfections here and there but certainly not all the time. A smattering of monochrome grey pieces are equally sharp.

This is a very dynamic collection, full of power and aggressiveness. One will want to note that, per the trend this season, Wang uses a very high waist line, not just on pants and slacks, but in how his dresses are tailored as well. This works with the look he’s wanting, but further limits the size of his audience who will actually look good in the clothes.

While this Alexander Wang collection was a lot of fun to watch circle the runway this afternoon,  something tells me there could be no small amount of disappointment next spring when the pieces hit the store shelves and buyers find they just don’t look good in the clothes. As attractive as this collection looks on models, it is  certainly not one of the general public and given obesity rates across the Midwest one is going to have to work out hard and watch their diet all winter long if they really want to wear Alexander Wang come spring.

Photo credit: Yannis Vlamos

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