NYFW: PETER SOM S/S 2015

Okay, okay, I get it. Green is going to be the go-to color for the spring/summer 2015 season. I can deal with that fact as long as designers stay away from the putrid pea green that we saw yesterday.

Unfortunately, Peter Som went in exactly that same direction starting with his first piece down the runway. Why? I don’t get it. Pea green looks good on no one. Fortunately, he didn’t stay there, but the color does keep popping up off and throughout the collection.

Despite the poor color choice, this really is a very attractive and very fun collection from one of my favorite designers. There is very much a tomboyish feel as he frequently goes to an oversized tunic-styled white shirt over a variety of designs. He also uses a number of cape backed shirts and aprons giving a sense of utilitarianism. His fabric choices, ranging from cotton poplin and chambray to sateen and silk, taking one from work to play, showing that this is a collection with a lot to offer, one that could easily dominate one’s wardrobe.

I will say that some of the opening prints are rather busy. I’ve had more than a few cups of coffee so my eyes didn’t have any difficulty handling the designs. Hit me with the same looks earlier in the day, though, and I might find them a bit more challenging. The broad horizontal stripes were much more to my liking and even the more narrow blue/white vertical stripes worked well, especially when paired with an identical apron.

One of my favorite looks is the creamy, half-opaque rain slicker. There’s a short version and a slightly longer version, both shown as covers for swim wear. Well-styled, they look more sturdy and practical than the clear plastic we’ve seen in previous seasons.

All the way through the collection, Peter uses silhouettes that make sense. Nothing is too boxy nor too fitted. The looks are functional, practical, and immensely wearable. I can’t even take issue with the gold lame` dress, despite my desire to hang a mirror ball and play a disco sound track. The look stays muted enough to not come off as costume. Shadow florals, maxi sundresses, and sharp blazers give the final looks an element of class and taste, but the collection never loses its sporty friendliness.

I really do like this collection, despite the pea green. Even the under eye makeup look worked very well and is one that may just catch on in next spring’s editorials.  There is plenty here that is fun, casual, and genuinely worth having in one’s wardrobe.

Peter Som web site

Peter Som on  Facebook

Photo credit: Guillame Roujas

Tags from the story
, ,
More from charles i. letbetter

NYFW: GEORGINE S/S 2015

Here is the work of yet another young designer with Italian roots....
Read More