There are some days where you want to just lie on a beach, surrounded by warm, gold tones, beautiful people, and perhaps a fruity alcoholic drink. Let the cares of the world just sweep on by, take a deep breath, and enjoy the richness that is around you. Brazilian-born designer Alessandra Meskita came very, very close to making that dream a reality on the runway in New York tonight. If we were impressed with her premiere showing last season, we were totally blown away with the power and attitude she delivers for spring/summer 2015.
So far today, we’ve seen designers taking it rather easy on the color palette. Only Desigual has really ventured into primary colors at all. Everyone else has stayed with either earth tones or pastels. Alessandra leaps over them all with a collection that makes heavy use of metallic thread in the richest color of them all: Gold. From start to finish, gold dominated everything in this collection, even when the primary color wasn’t gold. There was gold in the makeup, gold in the hair, gold in the accessories, gold in the shoes. Nearly everywhere one looked, there was gold!
Know what else Ms. Meskita does well? Pleats! Top to bottom, head to toe, the designer makes phenomenal use of pleats so that everything moves in exactly the way she wants it to move. Nothing is left to chance. Her attention to detail had to be spot on to avoid some serious wardrobe malfunctions and there were none to be found.
Without question, Alessandra plays to the sexier side of fashion, and for her first spring/summer collection for New York, she pushes the envelope a bit by showing just how short and how sheer clothes can go and, in some cases, the extent to which they can defy gravity. The challenge I see with this approach is that one is going to need sunscreen and there are no pockets on these clothes in which to put it. Be careful!
Just in case one might think the Meskita line is all flash and no substance, let me draw your attention to an interesting collar piece. What it’s actually doing is holding the backpack purse (where I suppose one might store sunscreen). From the front, though, it is a very strong fashion statement with a futuristic feel. Whether women will take to the rather complicated-looking device is probably questionable; I couldn’t tell how difficult it might be to put on or take off. High points, though, for daring to do something very different.
No, not everything is made of gold. There’s some silver and metallic rose, blues and greens, and a couple of incredible white gowns at the end of the set. There are even some interesting and futuristic prints in the mix, also done in metallic colors. Alessandra always brings the collection back around to gold, though, with attitude and force.
Now that we’ve seen two seasons from Ms. Meskita, I hope she starts getting some of the attention she deserves. Brazil has sent us a real gem in this designer. We would be foolish to ignore her talents.
Photo credit: Frazer Harrison