PFW: VIONNET F/W 2014

Designer Goga Ashkenazi didn’t seem to mind telegraphing what direction she was taking her clothes this season. Ordering over 20,000 white tulips from Holland specifically for her set this evening was a little tough to miss. Then, just in case someone didn’t see all those flowers, she put white tulips on every seat. So, anyone who was surprised by the floral-influenced collection she sent down the runway would have to be more than just a little dense.

We’ve had the tulip dress around for several years, but fortunately that’s not where Ms. Ashkenazi went with this collection. While tulips do dominate patterns sewn into the clothes, and beautifully so, the silhouettes are more likely to run toward A-line skirts on very loose and generously draped dresses, or in well-constructed separates with tops that are shaped more like plant boxes. Focusing on the natural flow of fabrics, careful folds and natural turns, Goga has given women very full cuts but has done so without sacrificing the femininity of the looks. She gives us a strong sense of being connected to nature all through the collection.

Blues and greens dominate the color palette for the majority of the collection, which on first thought sounds a little curious for a fall/winter collection. Yet, given the inspiration, did Goga actually have any choice? Blue is the color of both the sky and water. Green is not only the base color of nature, but a dominant part of the tulip itself. Ashkenazi marries the two beautifully and I really don’t think anyone is going to think the looks have too much of a spring feel. If anything, the colors give a sense of freshness to a wardrobe. My favorite pieces, though, are where she uses a very light off-white/grey that reminds me of the color these tulips might take on after a rain storm. This is a natural fiber, undyed color that plays very well with blue or slightly darker versions of itself and dramatically emphasizes the natural focus of the collection.

Worth mentioning here are the footwear Ashkenazi pairs with these looks. Keeping with the same green, blue and bone palette, the shoes run from structured heels (including one that looks like a flower stem peeking from a burlap wrap, to bohemian-styled sandals that ooze comfort. I would also be doing you a disservice if I did not mention the incredible detail sewn into this collection. Panels curve and fold and are structured with tremendous precision and then sewn with a strong stitching that guarantees these clothes will wear for a very long time.

Goga Ashkenazi and her team delivers an absolutely gorgeous collection for this fall (she made everyone join her for the final bow). Falling in love with these looks is practically impossible, especially after spending just a few minutes with them. When looking for something slightly different from the norm without risking the extreme, this is the collection you want to shop. You and your wardrobe will be the better for it.

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