PFW: MOON YOUNG HEE F/W 2014

If you ever disagree with me on any given point, especially my opinions regarding a certain designer or label, please know that I quite likely understand your perspective. I argue with myself a lot about designers and chances are the objections you might raise are ones I’ve already considered. Trying to cover multiple view points, however, would mean generating more words than anyone, including myself, is likely to read. I try to go with what makes the most sense. In this case, I had to question, again, whether to bother covering Moon Young Hee. For those sitting in the United States, there really is no way for you to purchase these pieces without getting on a plane and coming to her showroom in Paris. I genuinely wish that were not the case, but at the moment this designer doesn’t seem interested in expanding her sales to the North American continent, nor South America nor Africa for that matter. She’s content keeping her business in Europe and Asia, and even that is mostly centered around her showroom in Paris.

Yet, this is not a designer I can ignore. Repeatedly, what I see from her one season is what I see from other designers in twelve months. While she does give in to the velvet trend this season, what she does in terms of silhouettes and layers is probably something we are going to see in abundance this time next year. For those who simply must be the first person in their social group to start wearing a trend before it becomes a trend, perhaps it is worth making that trip to Paris.

What we see Ms. Hee doing this season is making a dramatic shift toward masculine cuts and tailoring in her silhouettes. For her Spring/Summer collection, she had managed to keep her minimalist styles fairly feminine by employing a V shape to the majority of her designs. This season, that V is gone for the most part. She does gather a few pieces at the waist, typically through some rather simple yet creative form of belting, but for the most part she stays loose, a bit blocky, with plenty of sheath and tunic looks augmented by more masculine lapels.

This is a fairly monochrome collection, heavy with black and white, though I think my favorite looks were in brown or blue. I can’t really be too terribly surprised by the palette, though. Hee never has been one to get too terribly bright or too terribly soft. The monochrome look suits her styles well and I’m not sure I could recommend straying too terribly far from that aesthetic. Granted, peeks of color under a winter white coat might be attractive in some cases, but she does the single-color look so very well that adding color would almost feel like ruining a fresh snow scene with your own foot prints.

Fabrics are seasonally appropriate on the heavy end. We see plenty of wool, including some very well done tweeds which was unexpected. Cashmere sweaters are very nice, and as mentioned, there is plenty of velvet running through the collection. What really stands out, though, is the frequency with which she places a sheer layer over the velvet, making the soft fabric look even softer than it is. The visual effect is quite striking and very well done.

Maybe you won’t be adding a Moon Young Hee piece to your wardrobe this fall, but once again I advise paying careful attention because these looks are contagious and almost certainly will be influential in seasons to come.

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