PFW: ANTHONY VACCARELLO F/W 2014

We’ve seen a number of collections with some unseasonably short skirts and shorts and I’ve remarked at times as to how curious I find that approach to a fall/winter collection. Anthony Vaccarello has been keeping things on the short end for years, though. So much so, when I hear his name I almost immediately think of legs. Apparently, I’m not alone as his web site is littered with pictures of legs. Vaccarello likes his skirts and shorts very short.

The first two looks he sent down the runway were slacks. For a moment, I was concerned, maybe even a little scared. But then, there they were, legs, under a short skirt, under a grey shirt, under a fleece-lined bomber jacket. All is well in Anthony Vaccarello’s world, and everything is beautiful.

Not a lot changes from season to season in Vaccarello’s world. One knows he’s going to use a lot of leather, and he did. One knows he’s going to have some very tight fitting silhouettes, and he did. One can count on some deep plunging necklines and those were certainly well numbered. If one came looking for some very sexy club wear, you came to the right place.

What is different are the number of looks that are actually more seasonally appropriate. Anthony gives us a number of knitted sweaters with full turtle necks that come all the way up to the chin. Some zip down the front, some are ribbed with lines of sequins, but all are body hugging and look fantastic when paired with any number of leather jackets that are included in this collection. We also see more trousers that normal, if memory serves me correctly. I’m not talking about skin-tight pants that one needs assistance getting them put on, either. Most of these are wool blends that fit relatively loose and give one plenty of room to walk, a very welcome change from what we normally see in a Vaccarello collection.

While I don’t really find anything in this collection surprising, I did have to chuckle a bit at the leather gladiator-styled dresses. Maybe it’s a European thing, but the spiked breast plate on one particular breast was just a bit much. I don’t know how Paris clubs are, but most US clubs wouldn’t let that look in for fear the wearer might harm someone.

Anthony Vaccarello’s clothes are always sexy and always fun and this collection gives us plenty of both. Don’t forget to check out those sweaters, though, they really are very well done. And don’t forget what season it is; you might want to use some moisturizer on your legs.

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