MFW: TRUSSARDI F/W 2014

One of the challenges with having so many dominant fashion houses all showing the same day, all back-to-back, is that one tends to begin making unfair comparisons that skew one’s opinion. Coming out of a dynamic show such as Dolce & Gabbana presented this morning, most anything that would follow, especially less than 30 minutes apart, would find it difficult to keep interests all the way through the collection. That is exactly the challenge Gaia Trussardi found herself saddled with this morning. Let’s try to be as objective as we can.

What we have in this collection is proof positive that layering works both in regard to fabrics and textures. Trussardi is at its strongest when she gives us a collection of fabrics in a single look, such as a wool sweater over a cotton shirt over a leather skirt. These ensembles are extremely wearable and are the kind of thing one doesn’t mind spending a fair amount of money to obtain because they are investments that won’t quickly go out of style. When she gives us solid-colored, single fabric looks, especially in the form of a jumpsuit, the effect just doesn’t work as well.

Trussardi sticks pretty much with earth tones, but to her credit doesn’t get mired down in black as some do this season. There is a sufficient amount of red, blue, browns (lots of browns), and even purple to give the collection some visual variance. Again, when she layers the pieces, especially in regard to color, the look really is impressive.

Comfort takes dominance over style in some cases. Gaia has gone with a very generous cut, which most women will appreciate. She provides plenty of room for one to actually move around a little bit without feeling confined. The down side of that style decision is that one has to watch the cut on some of the skirts. When one can make a runway model look as though she has big hips, and we both known they don’t, then there might be an issue. That skirt isn’t going to make your posterior look any smaller.

Masculine tailoring, especially in the pants and suits, are done exceptionally well in this collection. Trussardi uses a very unique fold at the top of her trousers, one reminiscent of some Indian stylings, but not overplayed. This is the type of detail that can make a huge difference in how the slacks look on any given woman.

Gaia Trussardi was scheduled into a difficult position, so if you happen to see some reviews that give the collection a more negative response, please discount the circumstances. In reality, this is a very strong, very wearable collection, one that can bring considerable benefit to your wardrobe. Be sure to look for it this fall!

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