MFW: GABRIELE COLANGELO F/W 2014

Joachim Bandau’s water colors are examples of artistic stratification. Diluted layers are paint are placed one on top of the other over rough paper. At first glance, the works may appear boring, and perhaps even insignificant. Only with close and careful inspection of each piece can one see the careful artistry, the deliberate brush strokes, that go into each piece. This is the influence behind Gebriele Colangelo’s fall/winter collection. Colangelo, like Bandau, takes great care and exercises amazing precision with the construction of each piece of clothing he creates. Yet, to just look at the pieces as they saunter down a runway, one can easily miss the detail, the craftsmanship, and the commitment to quality put into each piece.

Rather than deconstruct the entire collection for you here, though, let me point out a few areas worth some exploration.

1. Layers. Design stratification, if you will. Layers are a common tool of minimalists, but Colangelo pays extra attention to exactly where each edge lies, how the pieces flow together, and the overall aesthetic of the garment. He’s not afraid to go big. Some of the garments have as many as ten visible layers, and I can only guess there are hidden panels as well.

2. Color. Just as gradients occur naturally in water colors, so they seem to flow with ease across Colagenlo’s fabrics. I’m not sure there are any true monochrome pieces here at all. What this means is that the more one wears a piece the more they will find to appreciate it. These garments should enjoy being part of the wardrobe for a long time.

3. Construction. Difficult to discern from a photograph, I know, but Colangelo learned from working under both the Versace and Roberto Cavalli labels. Both houses emphasize quality of construction, a lesson that Colangelo wisely learned and has applied to his own collection.

The Gabriele Colangelo label isn’t exactly new, he’s been working on his own since 2008. His operation is small, but growing and gaining a lot of attention especially from Asian markets where the the minimalist look is more appreciated. US stocklists are not currently available, but keep looking. This is good work with a solid future.

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