MFW: ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2014

Ermanno Scervino is golden. At least, the first several looks are. The color that has been a part of practically every collection we’ve seen in Milan was front and center this morning for Scervino’s fall/winter collection. Set to a dramatic movie-like soundtrack, the slip dresses came one right after another, the beautifully fitted silk and lace swaying gently, sometimes beneath coats and other times on their own, each one as delicate as the one before it. Scervino let us know from the very beginning this was going to be a line rich in luxury and comfort.

Scervino jumps back and forth in this collection between daywear and formal wear. While the formal wear is lovely, so very well designed, and at times even a bit provocative, it is the day wear selections that tend to stand out. Dominating any buyers’ list, I would hope, would be the sweaters and sweater dresses that are the real warmth of this collection. Made of brush wool and paired with everything from pleated skirts to camel and goats hair, there is enough variance in the sweater styles to fit just about any occasion. Most have very large and bulky necks, which means one is less likely to invoke streams of static electricity when pulling them on and off, and they’re going to be plenty warm. These are pieces that represent long-term investments in one’s wardrobe and are done well enough to last for several seasons.

Many of the coats do extremely well, styled well enough to handle the double shift of moving from office to evening wear without being too ostentatious on one end or boring on the other. These are a must if one is going to wear one of the more formal dresses, since many of those are not only made of light weight fabric, but are largely sheer and drafty. The coats are sufficiently feminine but still allow enough room to not wrinkle what is being worn under them.

There are a couple of curiosities along the way. I would very much like to know where it is that women are wearing such very short shorts and onesies under their heavy coats. This is a style we’ve seen too many times this season to ignore. At first, I thought designers were just being a bit sassy, but we’ve seen too many pieces come down to many catwalks to not take it as a trend. Scervino has three such looks and even though the shorts are done either in wool, velvet, or fur, that’s not enough to keep a girl’s legs from freezing between the car and where ever it is this outfits are appropriate. I’m totally mystified by this trend.

Another touch that had me turning my head was a green puffer vest that made a couple of appearances, both times over dominantly green ensembles and below larger non-puffy coats. The vests are essentially puffy crop tops and the visual effect, since they’re done in just the right shade of green, is like wearing a turtle shell. I’m not saying it’s a bad thing, just … curious.

Formal wear, of course, if very light, full of soft fabrics and lace, and sufficiently sheer as formal wear seems expected to be. Each piece is as beautiful as those on either side. One wants to pay special attention to delicate beadwork in several pieces.

This is a very lovely, and quite likely to be very popular fall/winter collection for Scervino lovers. Go for those sweaters early, though. I won’t be surprised if they sell out well before Christmas.

Tags from the story
, ,
More from charles i. letbetter

PFW: BALMAIN S/S 2014

Say the world Balmain and many people hear “leather jacket” – specifically,...
Read More