MFW: EMILIO PUCCI F/W 2014

The Emilio Pucci label is legendary for its use of bold and dramatic prints and with this fall/winter collection Creative Director Peter Dundas goes back to that tradition with some of the strongest graphic looks we’ve seen from the label in several years. With a clear 1970s influence, Dundas has created a collection of clothes that are eye catching and timeless in a style that Emilio Pucci himself would have approved.

From the moment Eva Herzigova set foot on the catwalk, one knew this was going to be a special collection. The heavily beaded dresses that composed the first four looks seemed to scream as they came down the runway. Sure, we’ve seen some fantastic bead work this season, most notably earlier today from Roberto Cavalli. Dundas doesn’t simply use the beads to provide glitter to a print or design. With these looks, the beads actually create their own pattern separate  from the print underneath them. The effect is dramatic and set a strong tone for the rest of the collection.

Heavy in Navajo-inspired designs, Dundas uses a lot of strong knits that give some serious heft to seasonal looks. Ponchos and sweaters with fringe along the shoulders give one a sense of the desert, back when festivals such as Burning Man were first starting. Sheepskin-lined bomber jackets over a more delicate print dress are certainly a contrast, but in a way that evokes strength and independence.

As the collection goes along, the fabrics themselves get a bit lighter, and the cuts get sexier. Necklines plunge deep and laser-cut designs in the cloth punctuate looks surrounded by even more delicate bead work. Hems stay relatively high, and leather slacks are sufficiently fitted, though certainly not as skin-tight as some we’ve seen. Augmented by knee-high boots with a spotted design that vaguely resembles a paint pony, the looks would almost give off an Easy Rider feel if it weren’t for the fact one probably wouldn’t be able to comfortably straddle a motorcycle in these dresses.

If there is  downside to this collection, it is that these are almost exclusively after 5 party/dance looks. You’re going to want them all, but do you really have enough winter events to justify the purchase? Oh, what am I saying? Go ahead and buy! These are the type of clothes that you’ll create excuses to wear, and you’ll look great doing it.

 

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