MFW: COSTUME NATIONAL F/W 2014

Ennino Capasa is a different kind of designer and pushes his label, CosTume National to be a different kind of fashion company not just in terms of clothing, but in the very way it operates, where it operates, and how it presents itself. So, it seems only natural that Capasa would choose Triennale di Milano, a design museum located inside the Palace of Art, as the place to show his fall/winter collection. Choosing performance artist Maria Novella Della Martira to don a black body suit and greet attendees with a genuinely unique and impossible to describe performance also falls perfectly in line.

Capasa is a minimalist, but a minimalist who really likes to experiment. He has said previously that he wakes each day looking for a different interpretation to the things around him. He designs clothes void of complicated patterns or prints so that those who wear them also have the opportunity to interpret their own lives in whatever way they see fit. To that end, I will keep this review brief so that you can then interpret the collection for yourself.

Know that the majority of the line is black and white. There is one single red piece, a knit sheath dress with an expanded turtle neck collar, that Capasa says is for emotion. There are also a few purple pieces representing passion. These are all very simple very straight forward ensembles. Only when we get toward the end of the collection do we see a few suits with more masculine tailoring, and evening gowns with a more traditional feminine form to them. He does use stripes on a few pieces, but that is about as close to making a statement as Capasa ever gets.

What is especially compelling is the way ha manages and utilizes folds on the monochrome pieces of this collection. Capasa manages to give life and bring both shape and texure to ensembles that might have been boring and plain in someone else’s hands.

I’ve said enough. You should look at the collection for yourself. Personally, I think it is quite wearable and gives a clean palette to one’s wardrobe.

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