LFW: OSMAN F/W 2014

Osman Yousefzada seems to be feeling a lot more bright this season than he was with his largely monochromatic looks for fall/winter 2013. Everywhere one looks, not only is there colour, but there is plenty of it along with a wider variety of materials and textures than we’ve seen from him in the past. This could bode very good things for him as it inevitably makes the collection as a whole more attractive to retail shoppers.

While looks in this collection are many and varied, one thing that has not changed is the immaculate hand embroidery for which Osman is most well known. When one sees the runway pictures, it might be easy to assume that the delicate flowers adorning the bright shimmering fabrics are printed, but they’re not. Osman really keeps the detailed craftsmanship in his embroidery work and that aspect alone makes many of his clothes museum worthy from the very beginning, and extremely valuable pieces of a person’s wardrobe.

That being said, Osman tries out a number of new looks this season. I can’t imagine he’ll keep all of them, and won’t be the least bit surprised if several don’t actually make it to stores by this fall, not because of any deficiency of quality, but I couldn’t help feeling he used this show to gauge his direction for the future. What stands out strongest are the rubber mesh overlays, accents of blue fur, and touches of post-modern art in his applique. He even tosses in a couple of digital graphic prints. Any one of those, on their own, can be strong looks. Continuing to designs a collection with all of them, however, would just be exhausting.

Such variety is a little daunting because there is no way I can know now which pieces one might actually be able to wear come fall. I can hope that several of the brown designs with the gold eye make it into production, and it would seem to be a pretty good bet that the fur-covered shoes will get a green light. Beyond that, though, we’ll just have to wait and see what from this very large collection tickled buyers’ fancy. There’s plenty to choose from and it’s all good material. We’ll cross our fingers and hope for our favorites.

 

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