London traffic, much like New York’s, is never an easy thing to navigate and at times of major events, such as London Fashion Week, difficult frequently becomes impossible. This has been one of those mornings when one needs the assistance of a wizard to get from one show to the next. The trip from Christopher Kane to Roksanda Ilincic was excruciating. There simply was no easy way to get there, and even with the show delaying its start by more than 30 minutes there were still plenty of empty seats as models started their trip down the runway.
Roksanda Ilincic’s set was an elaborate piece of industrial deconstructionism designed by Gary Card, focusing on hard shapes and geometric patterns. What came down the runway was a contrast: soft, gentle curves on full, loose tunic silhouettes with geometric color blocks. Tans were dominate to start, but it was a wonderful set of blues that dominate the collection.
Ilincic focuses seriously on comfort this season. All her silhouettes are full and most of her skirts and dresses come down at least to mid-calf if not a bit lower. While this look works well on 5′ 10″ models, those who are a bit shorter will have to be very careful in their fitting to prevent hems from dusting along the ground.
One of the delightful elements of Ilincic’s collection is her creative use of folds, especially on tops. Large panel folds seems to be a bit of a trend this season, though it is certainly one that not every designer can follow. Ilincic handles folds expertly and beautifully, creating delightful shapes that stand out not only on the runway but in stores as well.
Broad gold belts accent several of the looks along with flat-soled, pointed toed shoes that, again, emphasize comfort as much as style. There were only a few faux fur pieces that really didn’t seem to work with the collection, and that was largely because they were so large and bulky that they overwhelmed the look beneath them.
Roksanda Ilincic is not a brand we see terribly often in the states, but it would be delightful to see that change. This is a very wearable and comfortable collection that deserves your attention.