LFW: ERDEM F/W 2014

Montreal-born designer Erdem Moralioglu defines his ideal client as, “A clever person who probably cares little about seasons. She has a lot of conviction and marches to her own drum.” Judging from the fall/winter collection he showed at noon today, one may need to totally disregard seasons for much of what he sent down the runway today would be draft at best. There’s nothing here that won’t fit under a coat, though. We just hope the heat works well upon arriving at one’s destination.

What Erdem presents is a collection that, in one fashion or another, shows a great deal of skin, which is a bit surprising given the season. Laser-cut lace is tapped for the first several pieces, and it is an effect that is applied quite beautifully. The designs are sharp and well refined. These are lovely after 5 pieces suitable for a formal dinner unless the company is, perhaps, one’s parents. Skirts are short, though, and what isn’t cut out for the lace is often covered with sheer chiffon, so one might want to request a seat near the fire rather than the window.

Erdem plays quite a bit with jewelled applique throughout this collection, sometimes on leather, which is interesting, and once even on a very fluffy fur (faux?) coat, which was an exercise in extreme contrast of textures. Where it works best, though, is on the solid-coloured dresses toward the end of the collection. Here, the applique adds a nice sense of refinement to already beautiful silhouettes, giving them just enough extra to set them apart from what everyone else is wearing.

Another highlight in this attractive collection is a set of heavier metallic print dresses. This may be where the collection is its most seasonally appropriate, even though cutouts along the breastbone are still a bit drafty. These are delightful prints on a surprisingly heavy fabric that feels a bit like rubberized leather. If anything, one might be concerned about perspiring in one of these outfits, but don’t worry, I doubt it will show.

The one miss in this collection is a sparkling red brocade pant suit with a double-breasted coat so thick and bulky the model had some difficulty exercising her turns. Everything else has the potential to be very wearable. Yes, there are  a couple of coats in the collection, but they, too, have cutouts in the sleeves. With cold weather like the US has seen this winter, the practicality of this collection plummets as low as the temperatures.

Still, I like what Erdem is showing. These are truly very nice, well styled pieces that add depth to one’s wardrobe. Just make sure you have a good overcoat.

 

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