LFW: FYODOR GOLAN F/W 2014

Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman like to paint. Coming from Fine Arts backgrounds, the two are visually expressive and have a “thing” for strong contrast. They consider themselves conceptualists, which isn’t incorrect, but at the same time they carry a bit of avante garde and experimentation in their portfolio as well.

What one needs to remember before judging this Fyodor Golan collection is that London is well known for its very strong and vivacious underground/indie/punk music scene. Unlike the US, where that vibe probably accounts for something less than five percent of the music market, the scene is hot in London and has been long enough that now one is just as likely to see middle-aged business people changing from their business suits into the sort of things that we saw this afternoon.

We also need to be aware that Podgorny and Frydman are innovators when it comes to fabrics. Their big claim this year, and I’m pretty sure this is the first time we’ve seen it pop up, is 3D printed tops. This comes thanks to a partnership with Nokia. While the technology is not yet there to handle large-scale production, what the team shows us with this collection it the extent to which very detailed looks are possible in very short runs. Over time, this could be very transformational for the fashion industry as a whole.

Now, having said all that there is one thing I really need to get off my chest: There were times during this show when it sure looked as though they were sending models out in garbage bags. You wish I was kidding. Black plastic-based fabrics had that wrinkled look to them that is not the least bit unlike that large piece of plastic holding my decaying banana peels.

Don’t let that dissuade you from exploring this line, though. Set in a basement (again, not kidding), the pair put down pink carpeting and even used some of the leftovers to cover some of the supports. Pink is definitely their color for this season and they made plentiful use of it. We also saw plenty of black, dark golds, and super-shiny holographic material before they got to a print that looked very much as if it had been the drop cloth in their painting studio for several years.

Silhouettes are, in a word, dance-able. There are several ensembles that have leggings, but other than that the looks tend to run loose, roomy, and in some cases all over the place. This is a look that is perhaps not popular with those who enjoy their comfy day wear, but is extremely common in the rave/indy music scene. The style allows one to move, flow, and even break dance on the floor without putting actual skin at risk. In fact, you won’t see a lot of skin in this collection; most of it stays well covered.

Obviously, this Fyodor Golan collection has a limited audience and if you’re not into that rave/indy music scene you’re likely to walk away shaking your head. To those for whom the collection is intended, though, the who set is nothing short of wonderful.

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