NYFW: BIBHU MOHAPATRA F/W 2014

Everyone likes glitz and glamour, but creating all those wonderful looks is hard work. Bibhu Mohapatra is one of the hardest working designers in the industry and the results show in the quality of his work. This season, the looks are more exquisite than ever, dramatically raising the value of Mohapatra’s collection.

For fall/winter 2014, Mohapatra chose the sunsets of Tibet as the primary source of inspiration. As as result, we are inundated with beautiful gradients through the courtesy of digital prints and metallics. Mohapatra really sets himself apart with a color palette that steps away from the common feel of black, but also avoids bright primary colors or jewel tones. As as result, the collection feels more relaxed, more comfortable, and more quietly elegant than many we’ve seen.

Another strong point in this collection is the floral beaded applique work on a number of pieces. Applique of this sort is increasingly rare because it is terribly time consuming to create. Again, this is where Mohapatra’s commitment to quality really shines through. We would have been happy to see this careful work on just one or two pieces, but this collection contains several options, filling it with pure elegance.

Mohapatra’s silhouettes are very feminine, emphasizing shape at the waist and skirts that flow and shimmer as they move. What may be surprising are the asymmetrical cuts and fastenings. One of my favorites is a coat collar that starts at the collar bone on the left side and ends below the breast on the right. A camel-coloured blouse with that reveals a lower panel of red is also delightfully beautiful.

The only curious element to the collection are the abbreviated gloves that barely cover the palm. When I first saw them, I thought that perhaps the model had not been able to get the gloves on. No, they’re actually meant to look that way. Not sure how practical that look may be, but it certainly gets one’s attention.

Watching the show, one is delighted to see one beautiful piece coming down the runway right after another. This is a superb collection from Mohapatra and I hope one that garners him a lot more attention from buyers. Finding his clothes has been a bit of a challenge in the past, so let’s hope this collection encourages buyers to put more of his dresses and separates on the shelves.

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