The arrival of the Spanish brand Delpozo at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, New York, represents a major step for the 40-year-old design house. Well known and respected across Europe, and a favorite of fashion insiders, the label is relatively unknown and its creative director, Joseph Font, largely unrecognized in the US. However, after their showing this morning, I have a feeling all that may be about to change.
Let’s just agree up front, however, that Delpozo may not be for everyone, especially not in the Midwest. Font is primarily a minimalist, though he’s not afraid to embellish a bit where he feels it is appropriate. His futuristic looks and clean-lined silhouettes are at a fine level of contemporary styling, to be sure, but results in garments that are likely to strike the Midwest aesthetic as strange and stiff, which is unfortunate.
Font seems to be aware of the challenge he faces in winning over American audiences, though, and starts this collection with a set of dress that include large, almost gingham-style checks, and simple, pale pastel dresses that seem, at least at first glance, as pure as the driven snow. From the first ten looks, eight are the sort that could go on shelves tomorrow and be instant hits.
With the tenth look, though, that comfortability is gone. Starting with a tunic dominated by the silhouette of a magnolia blossom (that was hilariously mistaken for a marijuana leaf by several in attendance) Font takes a futuristic turn both in terms of construction and fabric. Designs become unapologetically modern and fabrics, likewise, are more contemporary.
Still, one would be wrong to write this off as an unwearable collection. Font’s sweaters, which sneak in unexpectedly giving the line a bit of a 1950s throwback, are nothing short of beautiful, exquisitely constructed and softly comfortable. The voluminous folds in many of Font’s skirts harken back to the glamour dresses of the late Princess Grace.
Yes, there are a lot of extremely modern looks that demonstrate creativity above practicality, but there is plenty here to enjoy and a lot here that could prove surprisingly popular with women across the Midwest. Be looking for the Delpozo brand this fall, and don’t be afraid to ask if you don’t see it. This is definitely a label the U.S. needs to see more often.[Sitting on my hands to avoid commenting about the wrap coat.]