One of the strong movements we’ve seen the past year, and one we certainly hope continues, is a strong push on the part of Australian designers. There are several showing both here in New York as well as London and among those Nicky Zimmerman is quickly becoming one of my favorites. Last year’s spring/summer shows were the brand’s first trip to NYFW and I was very excited to get a look at what she has to offer for this fall.
There is a touch of sweetness that seems inherent in Zimmerman’s fashion and for her fall/winter 2014 collection Nicky pulled inspiration from one of the most awww-inducing sources available: a picture of her parents from the 1950s. I’ve no idea whether Ms. Zimmermann’s parents are still living, but after looking through this show several times now I have a feeling they were a couple of interesting and chrming characters back in their day.
Let’s start with the way-off-the-shoulder babydoll look that dominates the collection. Soft, feminine, and cute, we’re treated not only to silks, but mohair and angora in abundance, all nicely styled with down under teddy girl aesthetics. Split seams, fishnet overlays, and an abundance of lace make some pieces absolutely frilly at times, and several of the silhouettes keep a strong 1950s vibe, especially with the skirts.
Contrasting all that girly softness is the masculine feel of moto jackets, long vests, and gun metal bead work. Super-busy prints, which may be a bit too much for some American eyes, invoke chrome motorcycle parts, giving the pieces a bit of a bad boy feel. Silhouettes on these pieces are more boxy and full, a look that might seem the polar opposite of the more feminine styles, but yet still manage to flow together quite well.
This is a fantastic set for Zimmerman’s first fall/winter collection in New York. I was quite amused by the various reactions to the black ribbon bow chokers. Those of a certain ago loved them while many younger weren’t quite sure what to do with them. They are definitely a touch of that down under sweetness that makes Zimmerman such a unique line. I truly hope it does well when it hits stores this fall.