NYFW: RAG AND BONE F/W 2014

When the “IT” crowd left Rebecca Minkoff, they headed straight for Rag & Bone, who conveniently enough had hot donuts waiting for them at the entrance.  One can only imagine the melee the donuts must of caused. Of course, there are no pictures because the photographers’ fingers were still covered with warm icing.

Make no mistake, Rag & Bone is like Rebecca Minkoff in no way other than the target demographic they share. There are no pastels at Rag & Bone. Instead, the palette is darker, heavy with browns, tans, dark blues and muddy green. There are no shimmery fabrics. Instead, we find broad checks and dark plaids.

If there’s a down-home, old-fashioned, old-school feel to this Rag & Bone collection, it is likely because large portions of this set seems to have been pulled from your grandfather’s closet. The silhouettes here are very boxy and masculine. Tops are styled like bowling shirts, complete with name sewn across the breast. Dad’s boxers over leggings, or his old green muddled sport coat over workout pants are the kind of sporty and casual look that twenty-somethings are buying up just as quickly as they hit store shelves. In some ways, it’s just like a trip to the thrift store without that pesky detail of someone else having worn the clothes first.

Unfortunately, this is no less than the sixth season in a row in which I’ve accused a designer of raiding someone’s father’s or grandfather’s closet. While there’s no denying the popularity of the trend, the look has been done and re-done to the point that any hipster caught in these clothes is seriously at risk of losing their coolness.

Not that the entire collection is out-of-date, mind you. The abstract prints are refreshing and work especially well on the sweaters. Okay, so when the same design is used both top and bottom it’s a bit much. Still, they make great separates that can greatly expand one’s wardrobe. These pieces are definitely the highlight of this collection.

But seriously, does the world really need another bowling shirt? Rag & Bone’s Wainright and Neville are more creative than this. They have produced some wonderful styles in the past, but outside the print pieces, this collection really feels as though they phoned it in.

Tags from the story
, ,
More from charles i. letbetter

PFW: BALMAIN S/S 2015

Maybe I’m just a bit punchy from watching so very many fashion...
Read More