NYFW: JASON WU F/W 2014

Absolute elegance.

That really is the only way to describe Jason Wu’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection. High on feminity, the entire collection elevates the necessity of wearing clothes to an art form.

Are we terribly surprised? No, not really. Jason’s been moving this direction the past few seasons. He displays an intricate understanding of tailoring for women in ways that are exciting and sexy. While he pushed the edge a little with his spring/summer collection, what he showed today was more refined than anything we’ve seen from him.

Setting the right tone from the very beginning, Wu’s entire palette skews dark, heavy with black on black ensembles, occasionally tossing in pieces of grey for variety and a muted violet to prevent the line from being totally monochrome. There is no white. There are few prints. Simply the most elegant shades of black on every piece through the whole collection.

Silhouettes are finely tailored, slim-fitting, and flattering to the figure. Hemlines stayed long, never coming above mid-calf. Fabrics tended toward the shiny, with plenty of satin and silk. Sweaters are cashmere and even the coats, any one of which would be welcome today, have a strong sense of elegance to them.

While the day wear is lovely, and the sweater/slack combinations are the sort one would be a fool to not include in their wardrobe, it is, as always, the formal wear where Jason’s creativity shines the most. Sheer black panels bordered with lace and velvet, careful drapes and precise pleats, waist-line cut outs and a gathered lace peplum are all elements Wu brings together in a delightful parade of red-carpet worthy gowns and dresses destined for an array of awards shows next winter.

If there is a negative, and even suggesting such a thing brings into question one’s sense of aesthetics, it comes with the stiffness of some of the leather pieces. Jason’s choice of fabrics are so well tailored that the blocky stiffness of the leather at times seems an unwelcome contrast. Yet, even there I find it difficult to be overly critical.

Jason Wu has been extremely popular in stores and his Fall/Winter 2014 collection is likely to only increase that popularity. Be prepared to pre-order if you want to make sure you get any of the more popular pieces. You don’t want to miss out on this elegance.

Tags from the story
, ,
More from charles i. letbetter

LFW: BORA AKSU F/W 2014

Bora Aksu is not a label especially well known in the US....
Read More