PFW: GIAMBATTISTA VALLI S/S 2014

Ladies who are fans of Giambattista Valli would do well to refresh their underwear drawer before purchasing anything from the spring/summer 2014 collection shown today. Sure, we saw several lines in Milan, most notably Prada, where bras were on display with clothes, but Valli takes it a step further by including your big girl panties in the ensemble. Going commando isn’t even an option. If it’s not super short, it’s split all the way up to … well, you know. Exercise caution before proceeding.

That’s not to say Valli’s collection isn’t every bit as feminine as we might expect. Valli took the super-advanced origami class and pulls off some fantastic silhouettes with his unique folding. His gathered waists, soft shoulders, and roomy hips really go a long way to emphasize a woman’s natural shape. These clothes are figure flattering even if your figure isn’t.

Still, one has to exercise caution. Vallie uses a lot of sheer. On top of that sheer are appliqued and embroidered daisies and, just for folks in the Midwest, ears of corn. Pleated chiffon with its points dipped in red is nothing short of mesmerizing, but it’s so sheer we’ll be able to read the label on your navel (what, your navel didn’t come with a label? Mine says Montgomery Ward). Same applies to gorgeous printed organza, my favorite being a black and white piece with a stiff a-line skirt. The look is wonderful until you realize it’s wide open from the waist down.

As light and “freeing” as this collection is, it seems a bit of a mystery exactly why Valli chose to insert some brushed sheepskin along the way. Fortunately, they’re only in panels or around a collar, but the show location, Couvent des Cordeliers, was insufferably hot today and the models wearing the heavier garments were obviously uncomfortable. Not sure where he was going with that concept, but I don’t expect too many people to follow.

Valli used plain black bras and high waist knickers under his garments and, honestly, that probably isn’t a bad way to go. Just be careful to make sure everything fits well. There were more than a few models who were bordering on embarrassment by the time they made the full walk. Do the look right, and you’ll come off beautiful and memorable. Miss it, and you might just end up in jail.

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