Paris is perhaps the most storied, and definitely the longest, of the four major fashion weeks. The audience is immense, both in person and, when the technology actually works, digitally. Organizers seem to understand, however, that by the time buyers and editors get to Paris, their eyes, and their feet, are in need of a break. So, the schedule eases into the week by putting lesser-known, and less mainstream designers at the front of the calendar. Great news for Vogue‘s Anna Wintour, who used the time to “touch base” with her staff in New York. Frustrating for those of us hoping to find someone new and exciting to write about.
One of the few to stand out on Day 1 was Anthony Vaccarello. No, he’s not new. Remember that whole flap at some award show last year about Anja Rubik’s hip bone? Yeah, that was a Vaccarello dress she was wearing. He’s been around a minute, long enough to gain a reputation for creating beautiful clothes … if you can actually wear them. His ideal woman is tall and thin and, unlike most designers, Voccarello seems quite content with creating for such a small, limited market.
Today’s show did not change that target one bit, but it did show Vaccarello’s creativity. His favorite shape seems to be the triangle, used most effectively as the hemline for most his dresses. He then takes that shape and attaches it in back with several very narrow horizontal strips. The effect is stunning as it really emphasizes a woman’s leg structure, especially the thigh.
Vaccarello gives the line a pseudo-military look with rows of brass buttons and plenty of navy blue and black in the collection There is one drop of red in the palette and a handful of whites, but other than than the line stays dark and formal looking, which is predictable for this designer.
He does venture off the beaten path to work for a moment with distressed denim. When he does it is dramatic because it totally changes the close-fitting, for-models-only silhouette. Could this be the signs of a designer testing the waters outside his comfort zone? We can only hope.
Anthony Vaccarello has created some amazingly beautiful clothes. Now, if only he’d make some that more than two percent of the female population can actually wear.