MFW: GUCCI S/S 2014

Frida Giannini, creative director at Gucci, wants women to understand a few things for spring/summer 2014.

  1. It’s okay if your bra shows.
  2. Sheer can be tasteful.
  3. Formal can still be comfortable.

This may be the most relaxed and nearly casual collection I’ve ever seen from Gucci. Silhouettes are more loose, flowing, and in some cases nearly falling off. There’s not one single form-fitting gown in the bunch. In fact, there are enough kimono shaped pieces this season to make identifying which pieces are meant for after 5 just a wee bit difficult.

The highlight of this collection is the prints. Based on a mix of Art Nouveau and Art Deco designs, the orange, fuschia and purple prints are mixed with metallic gold so that everything shimmers as it comes down the runway. There are a handful of solids along the way, but for the most part the prints dominate.

Frida also takes the line a little more sporty this season with her take on jogging suits. I seriously doubt this is the sort of thing one wants to wear to the gym, but it further emphasizes just how relaxed she wants this season to be.

There’s no subtlety here, either. Black mesh provides a lot of the sheer look in this collection. We see it in small doses such as sleeves or shoulder treatments. Other times the mesh takes over an entire bodice of a dress, leaving only the print in the skirt opaque. This makes the multi-strapped bra really stand out. The underwear is just as important a part of the ensemble as the outer clothes.

How wearable is this line? Probably more than one might suspect from hearing my description. The bra is well done enough that it flows with the rest of the garment. Sure, one has to expect some comments from the more conservative members of any gathering, and those with more adolescent minds may respond with crude remarks, but then, when doesn’t that happen?

What Frida Giannini has created is a Gucci line that steps away from its usual stuffiness and takes a deep relaxing breath without loosing its luster. The collection is more fun and exciting than it has been in many years. These are exciting pieces to add to one’s wardrobe.

More from charles i. letbetter

NYFW: REBECCA TAYLOR F/W 2014

Simple. Clean. That really is the best way to describe Rebecca Taylor’s...
Read More