MFW: ANDREA INCONTRI S/S 2014

Andrea Incontri invokes a sense of the swimmers world with his spring/summer 2014 collection. His primary print theme comes from a set of sketches showing a diver in various poses. The motif runs throughout the collection, at times with larger, full sketches taking up the bodice of a dress, and at other times smaller sketches that when combined come off as rather busy.

Incontri is going for a fluid feel, one that flows naturally, and in the first several silk pieces he seems to do that very well. His silhouettes are short, a little sheer, and occasionally a bit provocative, but loose, with an occasional draw string to keep things together. The light rose trimmed with red lends a delicate sense to these pieces.

Unfortunately, when he goes with longer lengths, Incontri does with a smaller pattern with no visual break from top to bottom. With the swimmer sketches, the result is a very busy pattern that is, quite honestly, distracting. He does the same thing again with a floral pattern that would be fine in smaller doses but is hard on the eyes when applied to full-length separates.

In the middle of all these prints are a couple of short sets that are genuinely reminiscent of 60s style one piece swimwear, with high waisted shorts and close fitting tops. The look plays over to a couple of floral patterns, but is definitely more attractive in the solid colors, especially the blue.

Incontri’s brief foray into black works well, even when he applies the smaller sketch pattern. While the shaved mink probably isn’t for everyone, the knitwear pieces are simple and elegant.

When the collection finally makes it to evening wear, the look is close and sleek, just like a swimmer. The look works especially well in a piece with a finished collar and the larger sketch print in white on rose. The effect is trim, sleek, and flattering.

Incontri is much more popular in Asia than anywhere else and that probably explains some of the aesthetic choices that are more questionable to Western ideals. Ordering online is really the only purchase option for anyone in North America, or most of Northern Europe for that matter. A little bit of trouble, yes, but perhaps worth it for that one piece that sets you apart from everyone else.

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