LFW: MARIA GRACHVOGEL

The designer’s notes for Maria Grachvogel‘s spring/summer 2014 collection state the the line is “an expression of youthful innocence and creative freedom.” her muse, a young artist. While the show certainly did bring a feeling of sweetness, freedom, and innocence, it is an innocence that is coming of age. The majority of fabrics are sheer, blouses are left open, and as the silhouettes move from light and breezy to fitted and tailored there is a slight hint that there might be some seduction going on.

What Ms. Grachvogel brings to the runway is a line of clothing that is beautiful in its simplicity. There are no sparkling sequins or jewels. The models are wearing simple, flat sandals, hair is down and natural, and the whole parade felt very much like a spring walk through open fields with a light wind keeping everyone cool and happy.

Fabrics of choice are chiffon, silk, and occasionally a brushed leather. The color palette starts with grey, moves to a dusty rose, and then settles on brown. While it may not be the most exciting set of colors, it achieves the effect of looking comfortable, which is what one wants from a spring collection such as this.

Darling to this collection are the artistic prints, done in brown on white, that at times resemble brush strokes and at others the casual scattering of small limbs from a tree. They present a very natural gradient and, again, come off very subdued, not calling unnecessary attention to themselves.

As the dresses do eventually leave behind the outdoor wsipiness for a more fitted, indoor aesthetic, they bring with them a higher concentration of feminity. Shape matters more with these dresses, and therefore Maria pays more attention to the little things such as folds and seems, making sure the garments move just as easily as do the more full pieces.

As the collection ends, one might get the feeling of having just finished a very relaxing tea time. These are pieces that every wardrobe needs, and every woman should find an excuse to wear. Breathe deep. Relax. It’s all beautiful.

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