LFW: MARIOS SCHWAB S/S 2014

Scheduling can be such a bother at times. Placing Christopher Kane and Marios Schwab an hour apart looked perfectly fine on paper, but factor in the fact that the two locations were nowhere near each other, the challenge of navigating through morning traffic in London, and the fact that the sun was shining in people’s eyes as they drove, and suddenly the schedule falls apart. How bad was it? Marios Schwab was 50 minutes late starting; so much so that the photographers, who are under tremendous pressure to be early for each show, were becoming quite vocal in their complaints.

Perhaps the Schwab collection was worth the wait, however. Coming down the runway with a stream of fitted dresses, Schwab’s initial silhouette is attractive and feminine, Column dresses and pencil skirts abound. Shift dresses and strapless gowns are very attractive and immensely wearable.

Schwab’s color palette doesn’t stray too far, starting with white and black and easing into purple and red, tan, and blue. He plays for a while with denim, which many in the audience found exciting, and played some with frayed edges on a few of his pieces.

The most unique factor for those collection, however, is the designer’s use of staples rather than stitches. Yes, I said staples. Not the kind one might find at the office supply store, but rose gold staples that are sturdy enough to actually stand up to some wear and tear. It’s a unique touch, one that wholly belongs to Schwab. His fans would be disappointed if he were to stop using them.

Not everything works, though. Particularly, the backpacks paired with evening gowns and the nipple tassels under sheer bodices. The backpacks come off as adolescent and severely reduce the attractiveness of the dresses. The tassels are just tacky in this setting.

Marios Schwab is accessible across the US at a variety of stores, mostly boutiques. There are several very wearable pieces in this collection. The rose gold staples shouldn’t snag unless one has a nervous habit of picking at them. Certainly, this is a collection worth considering.

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