NYFW: DIESEL BLACK GOLD S/S 2014

Every design house has its archives, catalogs of years past, both successes and failures. Occasionally a designer will flip through photos from twenty or thirty years ago and create new pieces influenced by elements of previous collections. What Diesel Black Gold does, however, is go a step further and actually brings back the original pieces, re-works, re-styles, or in some cases simply pairs them with something different and shoves them down the runway. Testament to the timelessness of Diesel’s catalog is the fact that this approach actually works, and most the time looks better than it did the first time around.

There seem to be two sides to the Diesel Black Gold spring/summer 2014 collection: the dark and the light. [Cue Star Wars reference about listening to the force … or the schwartz if your a Mel Brooks fan.] Chances are, you’ll want to shop both sides. After all, the world is about balance, yin and yang, right?

The “light” side is dominated by white knits and brushed denim. What you’ll find here are lots of eyelets, epaulets, rivets, and draw strings. There are even a few jackets with 1980s Member’s Only-style collars. Short shorts have frayed edges. Jeans have cuffs of a different color and there’s an element of retro cuteness to the whole set. Bring these clothes home and your mom is likely to have a wistful moment of high school memories. Keep a tissue handy just in case there’s a random tear.

The darker side is, of course, black and there’s absolutely nothing wistful or cute about this portion of the collection. Heavy with leather and skin-tight leggings, this portion of the collection has a rough, hard rock edge to it. Laser cut mesh has an “I dare you” feel and even the mirrored detailing in a couple of pieces threatens to cut you if you get too close.

What the Diesel Black Gold collection ultimately does is offer a youth-oriented collection of separates that encourage a girl to put together her own ensembles. Mix the light with the dark. Find the combination that works for you. Just be sure you check with Dad before you “borrow” his credit card. These clothes aren’t going to be cheap.

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