NYFW: HELMUT LANG S/S 2014

There is a temptation among those who watch fashion weeks to be the first to identify trends. Get it right, and everyone thinks you a visionary. Get it wrong, though, and you just don’t know what you’re talking about. Two days into this season is much too early to be doing any trend guessing, but if I were going to hedge a bet I would say that minimalism is certainly a strong influence, and nowhere do we see that in action more than with the spring/summer 2014 collection from Helmut Lang.

Helmut Lang has long held a strong relationship to the art community, even going so far as to host exhibitions in its New York flagship store. Current creative directors Nichole and Michael Colovos continue that relationship with this line inspired by contemporary artist Wade Guyton. We see the influence in the number of pieces where broad lines of color, most notably the precise shade of pink that Lang himself once preferred, bisect the white “canvas” of the garment. Long, clean lines, uninhibited by details such as shoulder pads or lining, flow through the entire collection, creating a set of clothes that look as though one might just fall into them.

The touches of pink and peach are far from dominant. Most of the collection is monochrome black and white, void of any accessories or distracting details. Even fasteners such as buttons and zippers are used sparingly. Michael went so far as to create his own minimalist leather hair brace for the pony tails seen in the show.

The looks here are primarily casual, though one might get away with wearing them in a smaller, perhaps tech-oriented office. Hemlines are long, typically knee-length or just below, and the boxy style keeps even a hint at swimwear looking modest. I dare say these are the clothes that linger on the floor after being laundered and still look good hastily tossed on as one runs out the door.

Casual, comfortable, with absolutely no fuss, one can find Helmut Lang at select boutiques across the country (see their web site for locations) or their flagship stores in New York and Los Angeles. In Indy, 8Fifteen carries select pieces from the brand.

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