NYFW: ZAC by ZAC POSEN S/S2014

Zac Posen likes yellow.

Zac Posen likes yellow so much that even when he moves to a drastically different color, such as black, one’s eyes still think they’re seeing hints of yellow. ZAC is Posen’s second-tier, price-conscious line ( the translation of “price-conscious” means dresses are less than a thousand dollars). So, since this wasn’t his primary line the designer chose to show in his own showroom rather than one of the runways at Lincoln Center. There, against walls of white, he gave us … yellow.

The designer chose for his inspiration a Far East aesthetic from the 1930s blended with the body-hugging silhouettes of American swimwear. I know, at first impulse that doesn’t sound as though it should make a like of sense. On his Facebook page, Posen attempts to explain:

“I imagined how Bertolucci’s Joan Chen might have looked in modern-day America – with the quintessentially austere royal elegance and a sleek sense of chic. A grandeur quality to the clothing, infused with the minimalism of American swimwear, creates a youthful yet sophisticated elegance”.

How well did that blend work? Well, at times it really is difficult to see past all that yellow. There are a number of pieces where if one doesn’t at least have a reasonable tan then don’t even bother trying the garment on; you’ll immediately appear as though your liver has failed. Get past the color, though, and one finds very high waistlines, generous hip space, and flowing elegance in both skirts and trousers that seem to be begging for wind in which to billow.

And not everything is yellow. There are some very interesting, though at times a bit busy, black and white prints, as well as individual pieces in blue, salmon, pink, and orange as well as some surprisingly understated floral prints. One white gown brings an element of old-school elegance that hasn’t been seen in over a decade. Posen likes to accessorize with large, floppy hats and carefully selected handbags and stays with classic styling for footwear.

The woman who wears ZAC by Zac Posen is going to look sharp, and the line is bound to have very wide appeal all across the US and Europe. Start saving your pennies, though, because “price sensitive” doesn’t mean “affordable.” And don’t forget to wear shades when shopping around all that yellow.

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